Lyon is widely celebrated as the gastronomic capital of France, a city where food is sustenance and an art form. Its reputation is built on centuries of culinary tradition, from hearty bouchon fare to Michelin-starred innovation. At the heart of this tradition lies the perfect marriage of two of France’s most beloved products: wine and cheese. Situated between the prestigious wine regions of Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley, Lyon is the perfect place to explore these iconic flavors. A wine and cheese tasting experience here is a journey into the local culture. These are some of the best places where you can make your tasting trip truly unforgettable.
Classic Pairings You Must Try
The principle behind pairing is balance. You want the wine and cheese to complement, not overpower, each other. Lighter options go with more delicate cheeses, while bolder ones can stand up to stronger flavors.
Saint-Marcellin with a Rhône Valley White
Saint-Marcellin is a small, soft cheese made from cow's milk. It has a wrinkly rind and an incredibly creamy, almost runny interior when ripe. Its flavor is mild, slightly nutty, and tangy. This delicate cheese pairs beautifully with a dry white wine from the Northern Rhône, such as a Saint-Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage, often made from Marsanne or Roussanne grapes. The drink's crisp acidity and notes of stone fruit and honeysuckle cut through the richness of the cheese without overwhelming its subtle flavors.
Comté with a Jura White (or Light Beaujolais)
While technically from the neighboring Jura region, Comté is a staple on any Lyonnaise cheese board. This hard, aged cheese is made from unpasteurized cow's milk and has a complex flavor profile that can range from fruity and nutty to savory and caramel-like, depending on its age. The classic pairing for Comté is a Vin Jaune from the Jura, a unique oxidative wine. For a more accessible option, try it with a light, fruity red from Beaujolais, like a Fleurie or Morgon. The red fruit notes of the Gamay grape provide a lovely contrast to the cheese's nutty character.
Cervelle de Canut with Beaujolais-Villages
Cervelle de Canut, which translates to "silk worker's brain," is not what it sounds like. It's a traditional Lyonnaise cheese dip made from fresh cheese (fromage blanc), herbs, shallots, vinegar, and olive oil. It has a fresh, tangy, and savory flavor. This dish is light and refreshing, making it a perfect match for a simple, young Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. The wine's bright acidity and juicy red berry flavors echo the freshness of the dip, creating a simple yet perfect local pairing. You'll find this on the menu at almost every bouchon in Lyon.
Bleu d'Auvergne with a Sweet Wine
Bleu d'Auvergne is a strong, creamy blue cheese with a sharp, spicy kick. Its intense flavor requires a wine that can stand up to it. The classic rule is "sweet with salty," and it works perfectly here. A sweet dessert wine, like a late-harvest Rhône or even a Sauternes from Bordeaux, creates a stunning contrast. The sweetness of the wine balances the saltiness of the cheese, and its rich texture matches the creaminess of the Bleu d'Auvergne, resulting in a decadent and delicious pairing.
Where to Enjoy Wine and Cheese in Lyon
Lyon offers a range of settings for a tasting, from traditional cheese shops and wine bars to dedicated tasting rooms.
Les Halles Paul Bocuse
This is Lyon's legendary indoor market, a temple of gastronomy named after the city's most famous chef. It's a bustling hall filled with vendors selling the highest quality meats, produce, pastries, and, of course, wine and cheese. Several fromageries (cheese shops) inside, like Fromagerie Mons or Mère Richard, have small tasting counters. You can ask the cheesemonger to assemble a plate of their best offerings and recommend a drink to go with it. It’s a fantastic way to taste a variety of products in a lively, authentic atmosphere. Don't miss trying the Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard. It's considered by many to be the best.
Fromageries (Cheese Shops)
For a more personalized experience, visit one of Lyon's many excellent neighborhood cheese shops. These shops are run by passionate experts who can guide you through their selections. Many will happily put together a tasting plate for you to take away for a picnic by the river or offer in-store tastings. Some notable shops outside of Les Halles include Fromagerie Tête d'Or and Fromagerie du Passage. You can chat with the staff, explain your preferences, and let them create a custom platter for you.
Caves à Manger (Wine Bars with Food)
A cave à manger is a hybrid wine shop and casual restaurant, and Lyon has plenty of them. These spots focus on small-scale, often natural, wine producers and serve simple but high-quality food, including fantastic cheese and charcuterie boards. They offer a relaxed, intimate setting for a tasting. Places like La Cave des Vins de Lyon or Odessa Comptoir allow you to sample interesting wines by the glass while enjoying a carefully curated cheese board. The staff are typically very knowledgeable and can recommend excellent and sometimes unusual pairings.
(Image via